Whole Wood: Knutholmen, Askrova & the Road to Bergen

I had breakfast and a wonderful conversation with the owner of Knutholmen and his family. We got to meet his son and daughter, and there are others in the family who help as well, a true family affair. What a remarkable man. Humble, down to earth, gracious; the founder of the whole place, and yet just as happy carrying dishes to the kitchen, greeting guests, painting, and cleaning up. Whatever was needed, no task was beneath him. It was all about the connection. Together, this family has created something quite fantastic. He was, in every sense, whole wood. 

One of my favorite discoveries of the trip is a Norwegian saying: you are whole wood. To be whole wood is to be a whole human—balanced, grounded, solid. It makes me think of a great oak tree, wide at the base, steady and strong. It is what I strive to be. 

Our cousin Frank added his own sayings to the morning: 

"I take it as it comes." 

"I will make the road as I go." 

"I know this road as my own pocket."

The spirit of being present, forging your own way. Between whole wood and making the road as you go, the morning felt like a quiet masterclass in the Norwegian way of being.

This place is absolutely on my list to return to—several days, unhurried, soaking it all in. Spent some time in the shop and took in the beautiful surroundings. Could have stayed much longer. From there though, we packed up and headed to Askrova—Frank's home. A funny footnote to Norway's dramatic geography: from Knutholmen, Askrova was 30 minutes by boat. By road, it took nearly three hours. 

Hit the road to Florø, where Frank took us out to Askrova by boat. Our second visit to the island, and to Frank, his wife, our cousin Veronica, and the family. We had Norwegian meatballs, a favorite that my sister had been craving. Then we gathered to watch Norway play in the World Cup, learning the chants and getting swept up in the excitement. 

There's a spirit Norway is showing during this World Cup that mirrors something deeper about the country and its people. The world is watching Norway right now, and I love that because they deserve the attention. Wonderful people, in a breathtaking landscape that draws you even closer to nature. A perfect way to end the day. 

We were up early on Askrova for a hike to the top of the island. It was beautiful, freeing, restorative; just what the body and soul needed. Stretching the legs, enjoying good conversation, and soaking in that stunning landscape. Inspiring in the truest sense. After the hike, we had a beautiful lunch with Frank, Veronica, and family before heading out. 

Boat back to Florø, then on by car to Eivindvik— it was a beautiful ride. Somewhere along the way, something shifted. I finally feel comfortable driving in Norway, actually truly comfortable. With that came a moment of real clarity: the drive itself is part of the journey. The scenery along the road is the experience. 

The driving portion of this trip is as meaningful as any place we've stopped. That felt important to finally feel, not just know. This evening we were settling in, relaxing, and preparing to rest. 

Tomorrow—Bergen. 

The heritage of being Norwegian is so much more than the Vikings. It is the landscape—so inspiring, so alive. It is the people—so down to earth, so connected. And perhaps it is this connection that we have truly been seeking all along. 

The Norwegians who immigrated to America carried that brave spirit with them. Our own father was one of them, leaving Norway in his twenties and passing that spirit down to us. We are first-generation Americans, and this journey feels like honoring that gift—opening ourselves to something deeper, letting our roots reach down into this land, and embracing this side of who we are. 

As our new friend Thor from the Flåm Viking Village observed, many people come to Norway and feel as if they have come home. And it is true—there is something deeply familiar and comforting here. I know I will miss the nature and beauty that surrounds us at every turn. I suspect I'll even crave it, though I am blessed to have so much of it around me at home in Pennsylvania. 

And Frank's wisdom stays with me: "I take it as it comes." "I will make the road as I go." "I know this road as my own pocket." Together with whole wood, these feel like a philosophy to carry home. 

I have been thinking of my dad a great deal on this journey. How proud he would be. He may have walked some of these same places himself. We spoke of Skadi and Njord, and he felt present throughout. It feels fitting that, in searching for the Vikings, I found a deeper connection not only to my ancestors, but also to him.

In Search of the Vikings